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Close Encounters with a Wench 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Martin Hackworth, Joe Pulliam (1983)
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: Backwards Eric on Apr 21, 2016

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The route starts atop the boulder. You can belay f...

Description 

Starting off a large boulder under a roof, work your way above the roof crack to where it's more vertical. Arm bar, chicken wing, fist jam your way up. There are rap anchors on a ledge off to the climbers left, or you can continue climbing to the top and anchor off some trees. Finish is easier but still holds some interest.

Location 

Above the huge boulder that is mostly covered by a roof.

Protection 

You can plug a #3 C4 into the roof crack right off the boulder to protect the very beginning. After that, #2(2),#3,#3.5,#4(2). Webbing or cord for building an anchor off trees at the top.


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By Steven Lesiecki
4 days ago

The rap anchors are about 15' left, so don't expect to TR off them. a gear anchor can be built (C4 #'s 2, 1, and a .4 worked for me) I did not go to the top so I am not sure if you can belay well up there. If you build an anchor at the first ledge, you can protect the walk over to the tree (with slings and a rap ring on it) by just belaying the second over then putting the other climber on belay from over there. I would use that and not the "rap rings" the book states as they have no actual rings.

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