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Gargoyle Wall
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Big Neon Glitter T,S 
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Knight and Bruce Roghaar 1977
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 21, 2007

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is the chimney/offwidth system to the right of the classic Gargoyle pitch. This route is really fun. Start with steps and edges, then enjoy the double cracks. Arm Bars with the left and finger locks and jams with the right. Climb to an ancient bolt then the business begins. Either stuff yourself through the super tight squeeze chimney straight up (5.9), or go out the bulge via the offwidth (5.11).End the pitch at a belay with one good and one brand new bolt. Eat your Wheaties for the Offwidth or don't eat anything for two days for the Squeeze.


High up the Fin Gully on the Gargoyle Wall. Look for the only wide system with a wide roof/bulge section about 75' up.


One single set of Cams, at least one monster cam #6 Camalot or equivalent. Double on the monster cams would be nice but are not mandatory. Slings and quickdraws. Stopper are not needed.

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By Bill Bones
May 8, 2007

It's a far cry from skinny. My ass or chest would not fit through with out pouring oil on it first.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Mar 27, 2009

I am really interested in somebody elses opinion of this route. Has anybody out there climbed this? This may be my favorite off-width route in wonderful LCC. I added a new bolt and chains to the anchor. The one single lead bolt is junk, but after finding that I could back it up with gear I decided not to replace it. I can't wait to do this again.

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