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Clockwork Orange 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: WAGbag on Jul 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Fairly long for Spearfish with interesting movement makes this route one of the better ones in the canyon, though a few shared holds with Armageddon detract from it as it sits only 3 feet from it in spots.
Start in a slight overhang and as you peek over the bulge you'll be introduced to a blank orange patch of rock. Look right to find some good pockets, hike the feet and make a big move to the next draw. This is the hardest move, but likely not where you'll fall on the red point. It may actually be harder for taller folks.
Grab a few good holds, then make your way into a double gaston move or a bitchin mono undercling. Entering the black rock you'll find the crux, a hard-to-read sequence of crimps and terrible feet.

Location 

Center of wall with an orange blob of rock in the middle and a marginal belay spot.

Protection 

bolts


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 14, 2016

If this route had been bolted offset in a way that followed the holds instead of having just a plumb line of bolts, the experience would have been greatly improved. I felt it was the best line on the wall and it was really a letdown to have it squeezed so hard by Armegeddon- even to the point of sharing holds. A single shared start with divergent bolt lines would have been much better.
By Lyn34 Larsenhosen
Oct 16, 2016

Too bad that is how it is here and in Ten Sleep and other crags that have been cut through by a river or creek.

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