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Clockwork Orange 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 7/10
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: MJM on Aug 4, 2011

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Description 

Begin with steep rock on good but reachy holds to C1 under the small blocky roof. Move up to C2 under the roof. After C2, clip the C3 Permadraw, and move left around the roof and a no hands rest on top of the blocky roof. Continue to the reachy C4 moving left and then up to C5. Go straight up through the upper C6/C7 crux section to the anchors.

Protection 

There is a Permadraw for easy clipping at C3, courtesy of RCC .

7 clips to anchors.


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By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 12, 2013

Did this route today. There is a new first bolt, added sometime in the last couple of months. This makes the route much more enticing to lead since there is protection through the lower section. There is currently a fixed draw on the 3rd bolt at the roof, and the 4th bolt after the roof. This route was fun, though the move around the roof is awkward.

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