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(2) Clocktower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Big Green Turtle T 
Black President T 
Caterpillar T 
Civil Disobedience T 
Concave T 
Crystal Blue Temptation 
Detention T 
Diagonal T 
Firecracker T 
Hippie Crack T 
Jefferson T 
One Way Ticket T 
Probation Officer T 
Return Trip T 
Sea Dogs T 
Skin Friction T 
Snake in the Grass T 
Suspended T 
Wedding Day T 

(2) Clocktower Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 25.11126, 121.92272 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,144
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: greg k on Dec 14, 2010
Forecast:
Sunday

74° | 72°
Monday

74° | 66°
Tuesday

71° | 67°
Wednesday

73° | 67°
Thursday

72° | 70°
Friday

70° | 68°
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Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Clocktower is one of the most iconic features of the area. The rock is highly fractured yet solid, and thus a majority of routes are entirely traditional. The platform below the tower is just barely above sea level, so belaying can involve some interesting rope management to keep it out of the drink. It is also in the sun almost all day, except for part of "Discipline" area which is shaded around 12pm. The area is rather disjointed, consisting of several different aspects, approaches, heights, and grades.

The best routes - such as Wedding Day - climb through the tufa-like flakes on the east-facing aspect of the tower itself. You can mix and match the lower half routes with the upper half depending on your interests.

The "Broadway Ledge" halfway up the tower connects with the "Presidents" area to the right. There are a couple of short though worthwhile climbs here, most notably Jefferson.

On the south face of the tower is a concave, slimy section that was bolted long ago and rebolted in 2013. These routes are harder and likely awesome, but because the belay is always under water, nobody ever climbs them.

The northeast face is appropriately called the "Pondside" wall. Routes further to the right have the same wetness problem, but most others can be done without too much concern. Short, classic cracks with a big ledge.

The last sub-area is the "Discipline" area. This is a big platform that can be accessed by scrambling above the traverse to Long Lane or by climbing up the "Pondside" wall. There are several short but fun routes including Caterpillar and Civil Disobedience.

The only safe DWS at Long Dong is here as well. Check out Crystal Blue Temptation - a summer staple!

WARNING: This area can be impassable during high seas.

Getting There 

15 minutes from the north parking lot. Trend south from School Gate the rock field. After crossing the stagnant pool of garbage-water and hopping down to a nearly sea level platform, you will have arrived.

Rain & Shade 

All routes get wet in the rain. All walls dry quickly.

North-east face of the Clocktower and the Discipline area are in the shade around 12pm. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.

Climbing Season

For the Long Dong (Dragon Cave) area.

Weather station 7.0 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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One Way Ticket 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Asia : Taiwan : ... : (2) Clocktower
Approach via Hippie Crack, Wedding Day, or just scramble up from the right. From Broadway Ledge, climb the juggy face below and left of the roof. Once level with the horizontal crack, hand traverse along it, fiddling in 1.5-3" cams where the crack is parallel enough. From the lip, make a big pull up to the jugs, then scamper up the face to the top. Best to belay from the bolts on the boulder or build a gear anchor at the lip of the tower. Originally graded 11a....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of (2) Clocktower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the tower
Below the tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Pondside
Pondside
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast face
Northeast face
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Presidents area, including the r...
Looking up at the Presidents area, including the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: The short tower's lower half
The short tower's lower half
Rock Climbing Photo: Jennifer climbing "Detention"
Jennifer climbing "Detention"

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