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Cloaked Interpretation 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: FA of linkup pitches - Bryce Lokey
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Oct 17, 2015

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Description 

While just a linkup, this route climbs the best terrain on Cloak and Dagger and Mig's Arete, giving sustained fun climbing.

Climb the first four pitches of Cloak and Dagger, and belay on the right side of the large ledge at the top of the second 5.10 pitch.

Climb up and right for 70 feet or so to an obvious ledge that extends to the arete. Move right on this ledge, and belay below a thin crack through an overlap that is about 10 feet from the arete, 5.6 or so.

Fire through the overlap, and continue up the thin crack for about 30 feet until it is possible to step right into a dihedral on the arete. Loosely follow this dihedral until it ends at a slightly ledgy section. Locate some incipient seams just left of the arete, arrange some protection, and fire up them until a ledge system leads right around the arete to the base of the flare on Mig's Arete, 100 feet, 5.10+ PG-13.

Now just follow the last fantastic pitch (or two) of Mig's Arete to the top.

Protection 

Standard Black Canyon rack.


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By Vic Zeilman
Jul 9, 2016

This is an exceptional linkup. Sure to become the classic route at the grade on the buttress. Didn't get to climb the Lokey-Righter independent pitch, but it is also possible to simply move around the corner of the arête (another 10-20' right, through a bush) to the base of the beautiful fist-to-hand crack on P6 on Migs Arête. Very high quality and stacked with 5 or 6 pitches of 5.9+ to 5.10+.
By Chris Dickson
From: Telluride, Colorado
Sep 9, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is my new favorite route in the Black. The second pitch of Cloak and Dagger is maybe the best pitch I've done in the canyon, and the final two pitches of Mig's (we broke it into two 30m pitches) provide incredible movement in an insanely cool position. Also, the 10+ link-up pitch features good gear and fun face climbing. Finally, the sustained nature of the climbing (pitches are 9+, 10+, 10, 10+, 10, 10+) gives you the best bang-for-your-buck of any climb on the Comic Buttress in my opinion. To echo Vic's comment, this thing is destined to be CLASSIC.

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