REI Community
Tri-Level Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afternooner S 
Cliptomania S 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters S 
Innerspace T 
No Mystique T 
Prancer S 
Sweet Surrender T,S 
Trident S 

Cliptomania 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Mike Head (1990)
Season: Shade Until 3pm
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Dec 13, 2014

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Joe Kreidel making quick work of the powerful star...

Description 

An improbable line up seemingly blank vertical face, Cliptomania features technical edging, sidepulls, and crimps. Your footwork and finger strength will be put to the test. Your tips will scream in pain. While unimpressed with this route from the ground, the delicate sequences earned my respect. The demanding moves keep me doubting and making evermore micro-refinements.

Location 

Cliptomania is located on the north face of Tri-Level Spire; Prancer is immediately to the right; ET Arete on Rupley Towers is 50ft back. The surrounding environs are a little rugged and uneven.

Protection 

6 bolts to ring anchors. The anchors are shared with Prancer.

The first bolt is 15ft off the deck and the last bolt is 20ft from the chains. The climbing in these sections is significantly easier than the tightly bolted middle but caution is still suggested. An optional 7th bolt belonging to Prancer can be clipped to ease the runout; personally this bolt seemed unnecessary and off route.


Photos of Cliptomania Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finesse or power your way to success.
Finesse or power your way to success.
Rock Climbing Photo: Endless edging will test your forearm endurance.
Endless edging will test your forearm endurance.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edges and crimps exist despite appearances.
Edges and crimps exist despite appearances.

Comments on Cliptomania Add Comment
Show which comments
By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Apr 30, 2016

I did this route once with EFR bitd. I was prepping to fall but instead reached down to grab the draw. Somehow I un-clipped myself and took a big upside down whip. EFR had a funny/semi-serious response to the effect of..."now why would you do than man...just take the whip". He couldn't have been more correct ;-)

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