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Warm Up Wall
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Babushka S 
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Clip Jr. S 
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Wall Flower/Welcome link-up. S 
Welcome to the Gorge S 
What Up? S 

Clip Jr. 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Kelly Cordner, Brian Phillips, Scott Ayers, 4/1997.
Page Views: 3,480
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (126)
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Clip Jr


This climbs a pillar, on the right side of the lower left side of the wall, then up an arete.
Some tricky moves are encountered just before the anchors.
This is to the right of "Welcome to the Gorge".


7 bolts.

Photos of Clip Jr. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Clip Jr.
Topping out on Clip Jr.
Rock Climbing Photo: Angela cruising up Clip Jr on the Warm Up Wall. (R...
Angela cruising up Clip Jr on the Warm Up Wall. (R...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shannon up this great starter lead.
Shannon up this great starter lead.

Comments on Clip Jr. Add Comment
Show which comments
By ShibbyShane
Feb 23, 2009

Good arete climb for a beginning climber, especially as a first lead climb.
By liveit P
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jul 21, 2009

Fun climb, gets run out in the middle, but its super easy climbing.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2011

Quick climb up the pillar and first 3 bolts leads to a slightly runout 4th bolt, then to the arete and some fun moves up to the top. Fun easy climb.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 31, 2015

I personally would not put a first time leader on this route.
By Gen King
Sep 25, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Fun climb, although run out between 3rd and 4th because it's more like a scramble but after that you are climbing up some slightly inverted surfaces before you reach that next bolt and it's a total mind screw. Crux comes at the top before the anchors. Pumpy but a lot of good feet. Thought the rock was rather slick. But what is nice is that it is in the shade for hot summer days. I thought it was harder than a 5.6 but maybe it's just because I'm short (5'4") and relatively new to sport leading.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
May 5, 2016

Replaced the worn Mussy Hooks with new ones today.

We also replaced the old quick-links with new plated & tested ones from France.

Thanks to the ASCA for the new hardware!
By Marek Hajek
From: Reno, NV
Aug 17, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

The route has moves that feel stiffer than 5.6. Funny, how routes with sustained climbing, no harder than 12a get an overall grade of 12c, 12d, or even harder, but sustained 5.6 climbing only remains 5.6.

There is no way I would send either one of my kids to lead this route. The route name makes it sound like it would be a good lead for youngster beginners, however, anyone of shorter statue and fairly new to leading would a) get the hell scared out of them on the run out section and then b) have an acrophobic episode trying to clip the 4th bolt. The upper section is overhanging in spots and has some long moves. I would soil my pants watching my kids lead this.

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