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Clinical Procedure 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: (potentially) Gokul Gopal and members of the Outdoor Adventure Club from Platteville
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Gokul on Mar 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2: climb dihedral to ledge, then go up (yell...

Description 

P1 (5.5, 45'): Climb the hand crack that goes up two feet right of the arete, to a ledge with a big tree. You can walk off left from here, if desired.

P2 (5.8+, 75'): Move the belay back on the ledge system to the base of a slabby block. Go up the slab to a tight dihedral. The crux is near the top of the dihedral. Top out onto the ledge system above, traverse right along the wall for a few feet then lie-back up a sandy crack (about 3 feet left of a tree that stands close to the wall) choked by a chunk of shrubbery (the "shrubbery" might just be a stunted pine - I can't remember).

Descent: Walk (or rap from a tree) off from the summit.

Location 

This is at the very north (i.e., left) end of the Amphitheater Wall, just around the corner from the Incredible Hulk area.

Protection 

Standard rack up to about 3"


Photos of Clinical Procedure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route is just past the fallen tree, c...
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route is just past the fallen tree, c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 crack goes to the ledge with the big tree....
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 crack goes to the ledge with the big tree....

Comments on Clinical Procedure Add Comment
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By Gokul
Administrator
Mar 13, 2015

I led this route in two pitches today, during a trad clinic (with a group of 5). I don't know if it has been climbed before. Judging by the amount of sand and moss on the route, I think probably not.

I'm also not very sure of the grade I gave it. It was very sandy in spots, and I climbed in approach boots, making it hard for me to judge technical difficulty. I had no good feet on the crux move in the dihedral, and had to campus to get a high foot. So it might be harder than 8, or it might just be that my footwear/technique was lacking. The range of grades suggested by the group spanned 5.8 to 10- for that move.

Please post here if you know anything about possible previous ascents of this route.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Apr 28, 2017

Didn't know this thing existed, I'll hop on it next time I'm there.
By Devon Hummer
From: Burlington, WI
May 14, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This first pitch of this route which has a very sustained crack looks appealing so we rappelled and cleaned it some, Jenna had lead it and upon following I broke off two hand holds. It was not wet and did not rain within the last week so it was perfectly safe to climb. The first pitch is less desirable however the second pitch is certainly where it gets good. 5.8 leaders be ready for some fun, difficult climbing. I would suggest skipping the first pitch and just climbing the second.

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