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Cling to Evil 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: ARussell on Jan 19, 2010

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Cling to Evil is a slightly overhanging sport climb on good, flat crimps. Long arms will simplify the two extremely reachy cruxes on the first half of the route. Ironically, long legs make the double knee bar no-hands rest at mid-height somewhat strenuous. A slight runout up top keeps the climber focused in wet conditions.


This route climbs just right of the arete that caps the left side of the face with the two popular 10a's, Pentecost and The Four Feathers.


4 bolts, bolted anchor.

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By Tom Abrams
Feb 29, 2016

Just FYI - the new all Arkansas guide book tags this at 5.12a (as of 2015). Could see it at 11d, especially with the killer no-hands rest half way up, but the reachiness did make it feel closer to 5.12a for me at 5'8" since the low crux was a bit dynamic for me and the top crux was definitely a fair huck to a crimp, maybe I missed some beta. Fun route though.

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