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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Cling Peaches.
yet another excellent route at the Malamute. It was graded 10d originally, feels more 10c to me.
Pitch 1) begin on Old Style, veer off on bolted dyke till you reach the ledge, crux between 1st and 2nd bolt and reaching crack, old bolts ( 3 ) and some gear, not too dirty seldom climbed. ( original start was straight up from bog further right, never climbed)
Pitch 2) 4 star 10c pitch, starts at far right end of ledge with a glue in U-bolt. traverse right, pass cedar, bolt, pull though roof on good holds, thin crack up to Midway ledge.
Pitch 3) move to your left and start up crack to small ledge, traverse on slanting crack right with several bolts ahead, traverse left till gaining thin seam ( crux), good finger crack above till at base of Stooges slab (10c) This is also described as a pitch of the "Grub St. Connection".
Pitch 4) Rosebud was the original finish and only route on this slab in 1978 with no bolts (bolts added later), it is the 3rd line from the left with Moe on the right. The chain anchor above is on this route. We did the Curly finish furthest left with 6 bolts.
furthest right on the Grub Street wall.
Starts on the Old Style 5.9 ( where the tree bridge crosses the tide pool pond)
Rap stations all the way down the wall, starting on one of the Stooges anchors.
One can also approach the base from the south side trail ( start near 99 pedestrian bridge, make left where other trail goes up sandy hill.
standard rack to 2", mostly finger size. All bolted anchors