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Cling-on Opposition 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 43'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Alex Weber on Jul 17, 2014

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Description 

Ready for some crazy ass oppositional / side-pull moves off shit holds and barely-there feet? I literally have no idea how this is climbable: First two bolts is hard but the moves are all there: reach real far for a first right hand crimp. Pull up and get your left hand high to a good crimp. Put your feet somewhere, then move up with your right hand to a temporary crimp, then bump to a higher nice crimp. Rearrange feet, then grab a left hand crimper then bump up to the only good hold on this route. From here, you have a nice undercling/side-pull for your right hand. Clip the second clip from here. From here it looks like side-pull oppositional crazy business. The very ending is easy, but from the second bolt to the fifth bolt it's all nonsense.

Location 

Above the giant flake, to the right of Pin Heads from Space.

Protection 

4 bolts. Stick clip the first bolt (seriously, don't be a bad ass: this is a place you do not want to fall). Top anchors.


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