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Mt. Sabbatus
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Climb or Die T 

Climb or Die 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1982
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 5, 2009

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Description 

Climb the slab by (5-6) face holds to the ceiling complex. At this complex ceiling are two ceilings one bigger and one smaller. The smaller ceiling is a step onto it's roof. Utilize a thumb under cling pocket dynamically into becoming an index finger lay back by finger/thumb doing a pinching jam. Steep no other hold to get stabilized legs. Then reach to crimp holds better ascending. I moved to the right to escape the larger last ceiling left. Onto a tree ramp that goes to the top in a round about way. This has likely been climbed or top roped because I found slings on a tree at the ramp. The climb has no trad protection and would have had to been climbed like I climbed it without protection. I got stuck doing this crux because of a sudden rain storm. In seconds the only place dry was under these the ceilings. Only one place to go for me was get up it. Complicated manipulation of this only hold for the right arm. Do or die situation soloing sometimes. I kept my thoughtfulness to movement together. Panic is falling instead climbing ahead is being out of it. So much felt in so little time. I felt out of it caught by a rain storm. The climb has decent ceilings. The highest ceiling could be climbable. The slab is clean grey rock with many sloping hand and foot holds.

Location 

Far Eastern side.

Protection 

none


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