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Unsorted Routes:

Climb It Change 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: ccox and D. Bloom
Page Views: 969
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Jun 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Getting into the business

Description 

The start was originally a trad climb with sketchy gear that continues straight up past hard to protect choss. That route has since been disregarded(but props to Ren T. for getting the F.A.) Climb It Change uses the same steep, flaring layaway crack system in the start, but then traverses right into the overhanging face using underclings, a sidepull, and a hard to reel-in edge system. After the crux, punch it past a sinker pocket, some small edges and pods, and a layaway pinch to gain the chains. Pretty sick climb with classic movement. The route was originally bolted by Matt Grecco, with a direct start that has seen no success to date. The alternate start was bolted later.(Edit: Direct start was removed and 5th bolt moved to improve the flow of Climb It Change.)

Location 

4th route encountered on trail. On the first impressive and steep red wall.

Protection 

Bolts to lower offs.


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By Colin Cox
May 30, 2015

David is claiming the F.A. on this one so I'll have to tell my story. With David belaying, I punched it through the last crux to the place I planned on clipping the anchor from. I pulled some rope but feared melting while reefing on my left arm to clip. I quickly decided to climb further to an undercling right at the anchor to avoid a stretchy clip up and right. As I matched the undercling a foot popped. My arms made a good effort to hold the undercling as my body began to plunge down but I hadn't enough left.

David hadn't really noticed what was happening because a buddy of ours, Corey Ellison, had randomly showed up at the climb while I was up there pumped and going for the anchor. There was lots of slack out. I took a 35 footer stopping a few feet above the boulder below. Corey had quite the greeting.

So David goes up next and clips the anchor from where I paused and he lowers from there. I was so rattled from my whipper I decided to give myself the send because I actually climbed higher than David did before whipping with the anchor at my chest. I give myself the F.A. too.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 1, 2015

During my first visit to The Red River Gorge in 95, there were some pro climbers at the Miilitary Wall one day. I watched as one climbed up to the cruxy top of Thirsting Skull, then he dynoed, slapped the chains in mid flight, and screamed with success even as he was still falling. He claimed the send. It was then I learned that while climber's share a history, and an explicit language to describe our endeavors, there are no referees, no yellow cards, and no hardened rule book. Just ourselves.
By Colin Cox
Jun 2, 2015

Maybe it's time I gave it another try?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 2, 2015

Maybe you should have turned the fall into a "glory whip":)
By Colin Cox
Jun 3, 2015

I really didn't think I was going to fall until my right foot popped off a micro gas divet. In the moment there just wasn't any time for crafty ideas like that, but after the huge whip I settled into that ideology. I sent all the moves of the climb and then some, but I just didn't clip the chains.
By Colin Cox
Oct 19, 2016

Apparently several climbers have managed to find an alternate finish to this climb that moves out right to the finishing holds of Global Shmarming. The original and most attractive line goes up and left from the last bolt through a difficult boulder problem guarding the chains. This final problem is part of what makes Climb It Change such a rad climb. Climbing the original line will feel more like 13- while escaping the line by moving right will feel more like 12+. Might as well do the final hard moves and take the 13 tick.
By MarcYY
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 19, 2016

So you go through the large two finger pocket, two edges, and up through the pinches for the original finish?
By Colin Cox
Oct 21, 2016

From the two finger work up two holds in the seam then bust way left to a weird gaston in a pod. Up and left from there finishing to the left of the anchor. If you come into the anchor from the right then you have gone the easier way. That's the best way to describe it Marc.

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