Climb and Punishment
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BETA PHOTO: As Good As It Gets
The best climb at main face? Unfortunately the hardest to access and almost always wet. I may add a belay bolt at the bottom of this to ease access.
Getting to the base of it is a challenge - I did a traverse in from the left about a foot above the ocean which was much harder than any move on the actual route. Once established at the base of the dihedral, excellent climbing leads up to a roof which is passed on the left side. Continue up cracks until you are a foot below a big bush. An obvious traverse leads right until one can climb up to the sloping ledge. Above this ledge easier cracks with good pro and great exposure lead to the top.
Over the ocean at the far north end of main face
One of the best protected 5.10 trad climbs at main face. Single rack to #2 camalot protected this perfectly but extra finger to hand sized cams could speed things up. Ballnuts are useful but not necessary. Bolt anchor up top but the climb cannot be rappelled with a 60m rope.
By Sarah Spurrell 1
Mar 31, 2016
Recommend hip waders for the belayer... the belay is definitely the "punishment"