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Cliffs of Insanity

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hor D'oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Shrieking Eels T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Skip to the End T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cliffs of Insanity Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.15145, -109.59836 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,616
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006

62° | 40°

65° | 41°

70° | 47°

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72° | 52°
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

Getting There 

A 45 minute approach

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

50 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cliffs of Insanity:
Farm Boy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Vinciny   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Iocane Powder   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
R.O.U.S   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Princess Buttercup   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Nurse Rachet   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
M.C.'s Hammer   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Wiggins I   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Hor D'oeuvres   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Lobotomy   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Funny Farm   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
jew fro an a boner   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Wiggins II   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 150'   
Six Fingerd Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 57'   
Man In Black   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Inconceivable   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Puzzle Factory   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Broken Brain   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cliffs of Insanity

Featured Route For Cliffs of Insanity
Rock Climbing Photo: jugs can be seen with chalk on the right pro is in...

jew fro an a boner 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Cliffs of Insanity
bolder off the ground small TCUs in tight crack grab JUGS on the arit sport climb on rad holds up the arit pro in small crak on left then move to the left on mor face holds under 15 foot roof fingers to thin hands an cuped hands mantel on to ledge out right an yer dun!!!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Cliffs of Insanity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the best love story ever told!
the best love story ever told!
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Cliffs of Insanity
The view from Cliffs of Insanity
Rock Climbing Photo: end of the day 08
end of the day 08
Rock Climbing Photo: sunset
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.

Comments on Cliffs of Insanity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 15, 2007
Can anybody give me more specifics on where to park for Cliffs of Insanity and where the approach trail starts. Bloom's guide does not seem to give definitive info. I was trying to scope the approach a couple years back but could not find the trail. I want to avoid slogging/eroding up the talus sans trail if possible.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 5, 2009
Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall.
By alf
Feb 22, 2010
To Steve and friends:
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail.
By doligo
Nov 4, 2012
Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 3, 2013
The car doesn't matter. Got back there last weekend in a Subi Legacy. The lowest of low subis'. Its all in the driver.
By Devin Fin
Sep 8, 2013
sweet Gaar !!!! I have taken some pretty low cars back to the East end of the Cliffs but you must drive like Steve Mcqueen! My self an some other creek people have been working on the prow trail but it's slow going as it is very old an washed out hope to have it dun an carrind up by rocktober..for easier axes to the climbs on the front end.. cheers DF
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Mar 18, 2015
As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade.

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