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Jimmy Cliff - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bronto's or Us, The T 
Cliff Hanger T 
Dick Van Dyke TR 
Dike, The T 
Fiendish Fists T 
Friendly Hands T 
Harder They Fall, The T 
Third World T 

Cliff Hanger 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Andy Brown & Lotus Steele, April 1987
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Will S on Mar 16, 2007

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Description 

This intermittent thin crack in a sort of right facing flake system takes the line immediately to the right of Friendly Hands, passing a single bolt (old, not confidence inspiring) in the vicinity of the crux. While the old bolt on this route has been replaced, it is still a heads-up lead. The Vogel guide gives this 5.10b, consensus will likely settle a bit higher. Although short, the climbing is fairly continuous with a very distinct crux.

Location 

On the right side of the east face of Jimmy Cliff, starting in the same place as Friendly Hands and taking the thin crack/flake and face line about 5' to the right. There is a lone bolt at 2/3 height.

Protection 

Emphasis on thin stuff...small wires and cams, one bolt (1/2" SS). There is a two-bolt anchor/rap station (1/2" SS) on the ledge.


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By Bob Gaines
Dec 12, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced the bolt with a 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolt, December 2009.

The two 1/4 inch button heads at the anchor were also replaced with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts and rings.
By andybb
Jan 7, 2010

Thanks!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

a couple difficult and awkward moves on this one, ugh.

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