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Sphinx Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought T 
Cherry Blossom T 
Cleopatra T 
Don't Touch That Flake T 
Riddle of the Sphinx T 
Using Your Nose T 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Yvonne MacPherson, Todd Gordon, & Alan Bartlett, October 1989
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Randy on Dec 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bob Gaines at the crux of Cleopatra photo by Jame...


The route starts on the north-facing side of a large squarish block on the left side of the Sphinx formation. Scramble up boulders to access the base. An easy layback/flake leads to continuous steep smears past six bolts to the summit. The excellent rock and moves make this a classic Josh friction route.


6 bolts provide excellent protection. 2 bolt anchor on top; rap off 70 feet to ground.

Photos of Cleopatra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleopatra, 5.11
BETA PHOTO: Cleopatra, 5.11

Comments on Cleopatra Add Comment
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By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 17, 2003

Originally done with five bolts; the FA party later decided to add the topmost bolt.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!

The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a sport climb.

Once you clip the first bolt, it's 10c to get up to the horizontal break, then a wild lieback/stem gets you established on the upper face. It's sustained (mostly 5.10 moves) and well protected, with the crux clipping and getting past the 5th bolt without falling, which involves some pretty tough smearing that is both delicate and strenuous at the same time.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 11, 2014

^^^ Thanks Bob. I should have just stopped after looking at the star rating but no... had to read your comments. "some pretty tough smearing that is both delicate and strenuous at the same time" ..... sounds delightful? (not)
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 2, 2015

I enjoyed this route a lot, but found 11b pretty generous. Doesn't seem 11b when compared to Tin God, Abstract Roller Disco, EBGBs, and other climbs similar in style with an "easier" grade.

Regardless, it's another great route on the JT friction circuit.

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