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Cleopatra  

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: Super when its hot out. Awesome when its a bit cooler.
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: BBQ on Aug 30, 2015

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Description 

A must do route for the grade! 5.11d tends to be an orphan grade of neglect in Spearfish Canyon. For those who want a 5.12 minus experience without the need for leaving a bail beaner behind this would be a great choice.

A mellow start gets progressively harder until a sick 5.12a crux on bomb proof black rock shoots you down and makes you scratch your head. Hint! It's all in the body position. Get your hands on some strange crimps. Once you hands are pasted, try a back step with the right foot and get those feet jacked up so you can reach a two finger pocket statically instead of doing some unneeded dyno that will always result in failure and frustration.

After the crux goes down the rest of the climb is sustained five eleven and five ten plus climbing that keeps kicking your butt until you reach the fun moves below the anchors.

Be sure to pack in a bottle of oxygen into this part of The Gold Mine! This superb climb will leave you breathless!

Location 

4th climb from the left of the stripped bolt line. Note! The strip bolt line might have hangers some day so be ready for that adjustment if you are reading this description from your Iphone.

Protection 

Bring 10 quickdraws. Open anchors.


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