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4. Shadow Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbican TR 
Cleft Bastion TR 
East Bastion TR 
Keep, The T,TR 
Leaking Fissure TR 
Moat, The T,TR 
Portcullis TR 

Cleft Bastion 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipp...

Description 

Variety of different climbing situations.

Up the corner, then step right onto the face. Up that into the alcove under the obvious roof. Finish through the roof.

. (Perhaps the roof can go at 5.8 after you find the sequence, and the middle face section can be done less than 5.8 if grab or step on tree branches.
But if you're going to climb the middle face only rock holds, and pull the roof on-sight with no hangs ... need to have your full 5.9 game on).

. (If the middle section is damp, can climb through with aid from tree branches to get up to play with the roof sequence).

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Left (west) edge of the wall, at the corner which is the junction of Shadow Castle with the Albion slab.

Protection 

Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Shadow Castle area. Straightforward to set up top anchor with static line.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown.


Photos of Cleft Bastion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow Castle sector:  A - Cleft Bastion B - Portc...
BETA PHOTO: Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...
BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...

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