REI Community
Split Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Boy T 
Bike Across America T 
Bite Me T 
Bumpy S 
C-Section T 
C.C. Takes San Jose T 
Cleared For Takeoff T 
Desert Sky (aka Environment-Oil President) T 
Felch T 
Gynogroove T 
In And Out T 
Nipple, The T 
Nuptual Sac T 
Porky's Excellent Adventure T 
Potato Gun, The S 
Too Obvious T 
Turtle Vein T 

Cleared For Takeoff 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Lonne, Herb Laeger, and Rich Smith
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Placing a #2 Camalot at the top of the initial cra...

Description 

This prominent overhanging thin hands / fist crack is on the east face of Split Dome. The superb rock quality makes this short but powerful climb well worthwhile.

Jam the crack and use holds on either side for hands and feet. The initial crack ends in a small "cave." At this point a thin seam goes directly over a roof (thin cams and stoppers for protection)to the top or a left-slanting fist crack can be climbed to the top. Placing protection is the crux.

Protection 

1" - 3.5" Cams and medium stoppers provide excellent protection for this overhanging crack. Medium cams are necessary for an anchor in a horizontal crack behind a ledge at the top.


Comments on Cleared For Takeoff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Mar 3, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Given the ability to use holds to the right of the crack, and the shortness of the crux, I'm tempted to say this puppy is more of a .10d/.11a than .11b. Hell, I even sported a heel hook on this puppy.
By Randy
Mar 5, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Seemed a easier than Jumping Jack Crack for instance. I would call it 5.11a.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About