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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 
Blue Steel T 
Canary Corner Extension T 
Clear the Deck T 
Clever Lever S 
Dangerous Acquaintances T 
Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
Le Toit T 
Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Clear the Deck 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: [Eric Guokas led, 1983]
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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  • Description 

    This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.

    Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.

    Protection 

    You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.


    Comments on Clear the Deck Add Comment
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    By Joe Huggins
    From: Grand Junction
    Feb 14, 2002

    I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall.
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 16, 2005

    Gear Alert
    Lead this thing onsight with a few draws and small wires. Never used the wires. Basically soloed it except for clipping the bolt on high on Guenese. Told my belayer (Boulos) to feed a bunch of rope out and stay out of the fall zone so I didn't kill us both if I blew it. All went well.

    P.S. Matt says "deck is a mere 30+ feet away", although he neglects to mention that the landing zone is a razor-edged rock-band jutting straight up at you. Falling from even 10 feet up could be deadly.
    By slevin
    Jul 17, 2006

    Boulos.

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