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Cleaning gear on a Roof Crack

Original Post
Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

I`m thinking of projecting a hard roof ( huge roof ) crack, anyone know how to clean the gear after each burn ?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Theriault wrote:I`m thinking of projecting a hard roof ( huge roof ) crack, anyone know how to clean the gear after each burn ?
When I first learned to climb back in SE Tennessee, I was fortunate enough to be taken under the wing of some incredibly strong and knowledgeable climbers. Part of the informal bargain for their time and tutelage was that I ended up giving them a catch on some MASSIVE roof cracks like "Hands Across America" (at T-Wall).

This was a cool experience to watch as a new climber, because the techniques required to both clean and lead (for Hands Across America, the beta is to lead with two ropes, and untie one halfway up the route and drop it to avoid the heinous rope drag) the pitches could be quite unorthodox.

If you're looking to clean a big roof crack, you really have three options.

1. Have a stronger climber follow the pitch and clean it
2. Down whip the roof, i.e. pull yourself up onto the holds, clean the piece of gear, whip onto the next piece, bump up the rope and repeat.
3. Down aid the roof (either climb the pitch with an adjustable daisy and pocket aider or pull said items up to you at the anchor)
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

I would suggest that you plan on accepting a pink-point for one phase of your projecting. Cleaning a roof-crack is best done following, and it can be so exhausting that the process can end your redpoint attempts before you get very far (same reason why draws are left hanging on steep sport routes).

Basically, plan on cleaning your gear at the end of each day, and expect that your first burn on the day you redpoint will be your redpoint.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 40

Get creative. Can it be A0? You can hang on the gear slings and aid your way back. Hanging onto them or using a aid ladder. I sometimes make my own ladders off slings.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

those are the methods I had imagined, I was hoping for some sort of magical trick hahahah thanks for the input guy`s, leaving the gear for the day is prob the best option.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
Theriault wrote:those are the methods I had imagined, I was hoping for some sort of magical trick hahahah thanks for the input guy`s, leaving the gear for the day is prob the best option.
Oh, magic tricks? Bolt it and leave permadraws.
Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Pnelson wrote: Oh, magic tricks? Bolt it and leave permadraws.
I think my head would role for that hahah
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Get it wired on the pinkpoint first.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

If it seems reasonable, you can follow the route and clean the gear, assuming you made it to the anchors on your lead attempt. I like this method because you get to practice the moves, and the route is clean and ready for another redpoint attempt.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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