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Beat Around the Bush T 
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Clean Sweep 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Linn, Gerry Peich, 1986
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006

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Far left (north) side of the rock formation of the clean face near the corner. Slabby face climb for the most part. Can start at the crack to the right of the first bolt, or use the dihedral, traversing to the right to clip the first bolt (second variation easier). At the top of the crack before launching onto the face, I have been told one can use a small nut or tcu. Though, I did not find this helpful. Clip bolts along the thin face to the top. Tricky!


Gear: Quickdraws, small cams (optional)
Anchors: 2 Bolts.
Descent: Rap from the summit anchors. May want to take some extra slings/ rap rings to leave there

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By Fritz Devendorf
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Aug 31, 2007

We top roped this route after sending Estrellita. I couldn't send the bolt route directly but managed to send along the arete to the right of the bolts. The 5.10a rating seems more likely. I felt the bolt line was harder than Amazon Woman at Quartz Mountain Oklahoma.
By Dave Wachter
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice route. A little exciting to lead on-sight, especially if you stay on a plum line with the bolts. Seemed a little harder than 10a to me, maybe I've just been doing too much sport climbing lately. Got one small cam in before the first bolt, and another just off the low ledge before the pitons. Beyond that, there was really no pro aside from the bolts. Bomber bolts, though, and well spaced for safety with a sense of commitment. New slings with biner and rap ring on top. Thanks for that, whoever put those up there.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Oct 21, 2015

Definitely bring small gear for the lower half, those pitons are not safe. Once you are into the crux the deck potential is gone.

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