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Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Fine Little Line S 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Jug or Not S 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
Threshold S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Clean Green Dream 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Holthouse, 1979
Page Views: 4,701
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Bruce Holthouse Photo courtesy of

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


Start atop a large block and make a few easy moves to clip a bolt, pull the roof (crux) and gain the crack. From here head up the flaring crack can clip a bolt to the left with a long sling. Before exiting the crack head right to a bolt you can't see from the ground. Continue angling right for the dike past another bolt. Head for the top passing occasional opportunities for pro.


Between Walking Dread and Dirty Black Nightmare, shares start with Black Streak. Look for the low first bolt and roof leading to a 20 ft crack.


4 Bolts, Nuts & cams up to hand size, runners to avoid rope drag. Build a anchor at the top or belay from the rap bolts atop Bienvenidos. Descent can rap Beinvenidos with a single 60m or walkoff to east.

Photos of Clean Green Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce on the slab  Photo courtesy of
Bruce on the slab Photo courtesy of
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Holthouse: High up on the dream.  Photo cour...
Bruce Holthouse: High up on the dream. Photo cour...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Wagener
Paul Wagener
Rock Climbing Photo: The opportunities for unique positioning and movem...
The opportunities for unique positioning and movem...

Comments on Clean Green Dream Add Comment
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By Mike Howard
Nov 11, 2009

Replaced crux bolt and hanger 11/10/09 with SS 3/8 Fixe 2x3/4 stud with Fixe hanger.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a really fun route. As I smeared that face leading past the last bolt I sure felt off route- no more bolts, no obvious pro but it ended up protecting surprisingly well. Just follow the features and it will all work out fine!
By kboofis
Oct 4, 2013

Not for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Tricky pro, ~15-20 foot runouts, and slab make this a great route, but I'd make sure I was confident at the grade.
By Jack Lynch
From: Cascade, Idaho
Sep 5, 2016

If building an anchor, be aware that the best features are far enough up the face that an 80 meter rope is required. Otherwise the belay will need to precariously stand atop on the starting boulder as you descend.
By Casey Engstrom
From: Randolph, NH
Nov 12, 2016

I mistakenly traversed too far right on the horizontal crack, ended up on a bolt for Walking Dread. After a short traverse on the horizontal, send a few run out but easy moves to the right facing flake/crack above you, cruise to top from there.

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