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Classic 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Borghoff, Brownell Bergen, 1960
Page Views: 9,149
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (238)
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Becky Diamond

Description 

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

Start on top of the boulder pile right of Jackie, at a thin crack.

P1: The crux moves are right off the deck with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

P2: Follow a dihedral on the left to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor (2015). It's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Classic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: moving left on pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: moving left on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the overhang.
Pulling through the overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
Damun Farnum at the anchors shared by Jackie and C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic 5.7 pitch 1
Classic 5.7 pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
Classic 5.7, looking back down on the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Classic.  Paul is standing on the cru...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Classic. Paul is standing on the cru...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
2nd pitch of Classic as the sun is setting.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Classic.
2nd pitch of Classic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the roof on Classic.
Just below the roof on Classic.

Comments on Classic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 9, 2006

A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree.
By Joe M
From: Beckley, wv
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 23, 2009

Don't fall in the first 25 ft. Otherwise, super fun route. The roof at the top is Classic!
By David Ford
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 18, 2011

The second pitch is great climbing on wonderful rock. Definitely worth it to top out and walk off.
By wivanoff
Apr 9, 2013

I heard someone replaced the second pin on Classic in March/April 2013
Link
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Feb 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route with awesome moves and a great view of Millbrook!
By Gunkiemike
Sep 29, 2016

A variation on the second pitch - there's a bush/tree low in the corner that's getting big enough to be annoying. To stay in the corner, you'd pass this on the right. But instead, go past it on the left and climb the arete to the top. Superb position, great gear, and a bit more challenging (at one particular spot) than the corner.