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Classic Route T 
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Classic Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Raymond Conway, April 11, 1915
Page Views: 2,624
Submitted By: Mike Zasadzien on May 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper 5.4 Trad bit

Description 

Route starts with a 4th-class scramble up the left and curves to the right where you can find two sets of bolted anchors. There is now a single bolt along the way before reaching the chains. The older ones on the left is where most start or you can choose to move over to the newer ones, and begin their trad climb up and to the right in the obvious rock gulch; continuously curving rightwards. Towards the top you hit a ridge and cut back left to the anchor chains. Trad pitch is approximately 70 feet in length.

Can be rapped with double 60m ropes all the way back to the trail[50s barely touch the ground]; although be very wary since it has a tendency to get stuck[bring the knot over the lip, and flake the two strands in seperate notches]. Can also be done with two rappels using the intermediate anchors.

Location 

In front of the tree. Obvious scramble to first anchor.

Protection 

Pro to 2" ; Bolted Anchor after 4th class scramble. Second new bolted anchor to its right. Anchor with rappel chains at the top.


Photos of Classic Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower 4th class portion
BETA PHOTO: Lower 4th class portion

Comments on Classic Route Add Comment
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

USING A SINGLE 60M ROPE:
Rappel off the summit via long chain (weird setup, huh?) to shiny new ClimbX bolt anchors. Rappel again down the bolted approach pitch. No problem.

The view is incredible up here. Although the climbing is super easy, and the setting far from pristine, you get clear views of some of the Gorge's most iconic features. Vista Point, Beacon Rock, Multnomah Falls... every local traditionalist should sit atop the Cock at some point.

Not sure about the legality of it, but it would be easier/cheaper to just park on the shoulder and hop the guardrail to the short approach trail. Otherwise it's $5 and a 5 minute walk.
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I park in a pullout on I84 about 1/8th mile east of the pinnacle.
By Dallas R
From: Traveling the USA
Jul 1, 2015

We tried Just shy of the tip. There was so much dust/choss on the route we couldn't keep our feet under us. To bad we couldn't find the brush.

So we moved over to the classic route. Found two bolts to the anchor. Easy transition to the new anchor. Started up the second pitch. Second placement was a nut in a crack, as it was getting placed yellow jackets started spewing forth. Abandoned placement and quickly scrambled up. Easy to do, it was 5.4. Poor second had to get the nut out of the wasps nest. In his haste miss-clipped the nut tool. Free nut tool to whoever can find it. No stings attached.

Missed the left turn to go to the anchors, wound up on the arête. Arête was easier climb. Really odd chain anchors. Set in concrete footie, in line. Decided it was ok to rap off the end of the single chain as it was tied into 3 footings. Locking biner with purple tape was stuck in the chain. Sideways so is unusable.

Rapped to new anchor, rapped to ground. 60m rope.
By Christopher D. Walsh
From: Index, WA
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Wasps are still there, in an obvious crack that might seem like a great handhold for some. Couple of rocks that look great for gear but would blow right off in a fall. Climbed right at the top as well, great exposure for the low level of commitment.
By David Currie
May 11, 2017

Climbed the route last weekend and had a great time. Even though it isn't the most challenging or clean route, the opportunity to practice climbing multiple pitches along with the views make it well worth it.

Bring a few slings for optional placements through some tunnels in the rock that worked well for me.
By das1405
From: Portland
Jun 7, 2017

there are 2 bolts on the first pitch, 4th class scramble. which seems smart, even though it is a super mellow scramble, i didn't see much opportunity to place pro. wouldn't you feel stupid if you feel off and died on a 4th class ramp?

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