Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m), Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,104 total · 10/month
Shared By: Eddy Daly on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

The Classic Jam Crack is located just north (climber's left) of Lucky Boy, Baba Louie, and Quickdraw McGraw on the Dihedral Wall. A very regular crack varying from solid hands to finger stacks and ringlocks. One of the best jamming routes in the Albuquerque area.
Bernard Moret, in his guide, rates this as "mostly 5.8 with a harder start". I disagree. The start, while overcoming a bulge and jamming on just-over-vertical rock, is one of the most straight forward sections with beautiful hands. Above the bulge one enters a concavity and must overcome another bulge with the crack being more in the ringlock arena. I rate it a solid 5.9 route.

Location Suggest change

Palomas Peak on the north end of The Dihedral Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Pro in the two inch to one inch array. I used the following:

2@ #2 camalots
2@ #1 camalots
2@ #.75 camalots
2@ #.5 camalots

Anchor with lowering hooks (lowering hardware added 9/2023 by NMMC, provided by ASCA)

Photos

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