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Capitol Gorge
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Classic Handcrack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olevsky, 1979
Page Views: 2,571
Submitted By: josh holmes on Oct 11, 2008  with updates from bvb

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Jim Goff leading Classic Handcrack


A great introduction to desert crack climbing. Start down and left of the crack near a pine tree. Ascend the obvious splitter crack in the wingate slab. The crux is getting past a thin-hands section to the good hand jams and another little cruxy section just before the anchor (bring something like a green or a yellow alien). Originally called 10a, this will feel easier than anything in Indian Creek.


Drive south on the scenic drive past the visitor center and campground. After 8 miles the road will turn to dirt. Drive another 1/2 mile and you will see the obvious splitter hand crack on the right about 200 feet from the road on the left (south) side. There is a pine tree at the base, just left of the crack.


some finger pieces for the bottom and top,1 .5 camalot, 2-3 .75 camalots, 3-4 #1 camalots, 2-3 #2 camalots, 2 #3 camalots. rappel off bolts with chains.

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By bvb
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Ron Olevsky definately did the FA, as he recalls it was '79 or '80. The anchor included at least one drilled baby angle.. Super classic little splitter with a sporty start.
By Dann R
From: Hermosa Beach, ca
Jun 20, 2013

What's the descent? Is there a rap off?
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Jul 19, 2013

Yes, rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains. I believe that one rope will get you down... a seventy meter definitely will.

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