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Classic Rock
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Classic Arete 
Classic Crack 
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Classic Crack 

Hueco: V0 Font: 4

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V0 Font: 4 [details]
FA: Probably Bob Horan
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Nov 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Two fine problems on Classic Rock.

Description 

Hidden on the north face of Classic Rock is the eye catching namesake, Classic Crack. At first blush many years ago I thought this route was nothing "Classic", just a well-hidden cleft in the sandstone. But as time goes by, I return again and again. Then I look at pictures of the route and finally notice the green, lichen colored pastels of the tableau. I remember the safe landing and square cut top out, perfect for the aspiring boulderer. Yes, this is Classic Crack.

The North Side of Classic Rock has two tiers, split right where Classic Crack creases the boulder. Start on the lower tier for the full effect. The crux is working up from the ground using edges and a not so great finger jam to a point where you're able to reach into the large section of crack (there's a hidden hand jam back there) and crank up. Mantle to the top.

Location 

On the overhanging north side of Classic Rock.

Protection 

Pad is fine.


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By allen simons
Nov 14, 2007

There are a couple of variations to this problem that make it a bit harder. First, go to the other side of the boulder(in between the two rocks which create a narrow chimney) and traverse the entire boulder without using the back rock wall (5.10). Continue around the boulder without using the top of it, until you get to the classic crack. Go up the standard way there or eliminate the huge foot hold that is well seen in the photo. Instead use the slabby edge below it. This puts it into the 5.10 range. You can also use a fist jam in the crack. allen

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