Classic Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
Classic Cliff is located at the lower end of Upper Dream Canyon. Several routes were established here in 2004 by Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela. Most are sport routes, but one requires some gear in addition to the bolts.
A. Grace Poole
, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Jane Eyre
, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts
D. Far From The Madding Crowd
, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
Classic Cliff is located at the lower end of Upper Dream Canyon. It can be reached by hiking downstream from Werner's Legacy about 100 yards or by descending a steep trail in a grassy gully directly north of the wall. It is located at a bend in the creek with a large dead tree. Another approach is from Boulder Canyon, as for the Wall of Winter Warmth, continuing upstream another 200 yards or so. It is across the creek and a little upstream from the Serenity Spire. Most of the left side of the wall has the creek flowing under it, but the routes on the middle and right are easily accessible. The cliff is roughly west-facing. The river noise can make communication difficult, so be prepared, particularly on Grace Poole and Jane Eyre.
Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout...
used with permission.
Climbing Season For the Upper Dream Canyon area.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Classic Cliff
BETA PHOTO: Classic Cliff, right side. Photo by Vaino Kodas; ...
BETA PHOTO: Classic Cliff, middle. Photo by Vaino Kodas; used...
By david goldstein
Sep 8, 2006
The routes on this crag may not be long, but they are continuous. The first 30' of all routes being essentially devoid of easy moves and rests.
A good cliff for those who dis Boulder Canyon for its soft grades. Some sort of logarithmic grading scale seemed to be in effect here -- the 10d, while hard for a sport climb of that rating in BC, was in the ballpark, the 11bs felt like total sandbags (Jane Eyre brought to mind a harder Conans), while we felt the 11c contained perhaps six moves of that grade separated by harder moves. Maybe, it was just a high gravity day.
But don't let my incompetence stop you from visiting this quality crag. The left two routes are particularly worthy.