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Clam Digger "Direct" 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Winter
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Dec 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Me. Barfing.

Description 

The original Clam Digger route, already a Liming classic, has a recently added extension above the normal step out to the right 2/3 of the way up marking the 5.10 finish.

This route is the lovechild of a body slot, squeeze chimney, and an offwidth AND there is a handcrack in back, useful only if you can reach it! Be prepared to feel like you have just sprinted a 10k race! This route will leave you full-body tired...

Begin by wedging yourself into this giant overlap and proceed to brawl your way through the lower crux with a combo of chimney and offwidth technique. Rests will only come with good technique and body position. Pass some miniscule faceholds and get crafty moving in towards the handcrack and back out towards the arete of the clam.

Squirm your way up to the 5.10 exit move (the old bolt protecting the 5.10 exit has been chopped) and keep forging upwards towards a flared pod. Above the 5.10 exit, the crack at the back of the slot will thin and the overlap/"clam" will squeeze you into increasingly strenuous positions. Reach the chains before your quads and calves give out.

Note 1: This 5.11 extension is better for top roping than the original 5.10 finish.

Note 2: Rack up wisely. Poorly racked harnesses will be a nuisance on this route.

Location 

The Pillars area; immediately to the right of the super thin crack of Air China (5.13c) and a 1-minute walk left from Highway to Hell (5.10a) and Faraway Corner (5.11a).

Protection 

Double #.5
Triple #.75
Triple #1
Double or Triple #2
Double #3

C3 cams from #0-2 (green to yellow) or equivalent TCUs or small X4s


Photos of Clam Digger "Direct" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fighting through the Clam Digger "Direct"...
Fighting through the Clam Digger "Direct"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the desperate final moves to the chain...
Approaching the desperate final moves to the chain...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting the brawl on through the middle of the Cla...
Getting the brawl on through the middle of the Cla...

Comments on Clam Digger "Direct" Add Comment
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By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

THE rite of passage/"quintessential" Li Ming barf-fest.

Did not send. In fact, far from sending.

I would recommend a knee pad as part of the rack.

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