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City Slickers 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 4,303
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

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Zach Allen reaching for the crux 2-finger pocket.

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  • Description 

    Short but stout, this is a slightly overhung route with somewhat powerful moves and not much of a rest. I won't divulge the beta, but know that it's not just an overhang haul - it requires some careful balance.


    3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Third bolt is drawn incorrectly in the Rolofson guidebook; you can't see it from the ground, but it's just over the lip of the ledge. To prevent horrendous abrasion of your rope, clean on rappel.

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    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin, the city slicker.
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    Max on City Slickers.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 18, 2002

    Starting low off the ground to the right of the starting ledge and the first bolt improves the route. A series of tricky moves off the ground gets to the first bolt and makes the route longer and more continuous.
    By bb
    Jan 23, 2004
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Since this route is so short, I didn't feel like this climb deserved a 5.12 rating. The juggy two finger pocket out left is an amazing hold!
    By chris deulen
    From: Castle Rock
    Aug 13, 2004
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Just because it's short doesn't mean it's not difficult. No one sandbagged "The Fly" because it was two bolts. I think a boulder rating would be more accurate in this circumstance (though still quite high ball); in this case probably V4/V4+.
    By Matt McMurray
    From: Castle Rock, CO
    Apr 20, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Length schmength... size doesn't matter... err... What I mean is that you better have the moves and stamina if you want to get off this route... 12a! ;-)
    By Erik Durgin
    Sep 27, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Great little boulder problem. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. I agree with the V4/V4+ rating
    By Sam Benedict
    From: Denver, CO
    Dec 11, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    This was the first 12a that I actually sent. It seems to be a good one for breaking into the grade. Not as glorious as it could be, being as short as it is. But whatever, it's still a 12a in my book. The setting up to go to the pocket and the tricky mantle certainly warrant the grade.
    By sean connors
    Dec 13, 2006

    Sam, I poop out better 12s than that! Just kidding. Good send.
    By Davis Benz
    From: Golden
    Aug 16, 2009

    Is the pocket chipped? Seemed too good to be true.
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    It has been many years since I had climbed this line, but I remembered just how much I do love this line. Yes, it's short but the moves are fun and it's a great warm-up option on this steep and difficult wall. It's also a great grade for those breaking into the 12 grade and I have seen the line bring much satisfaction to those starting to push that grade. Bottom's a nice line.
    By dan scales
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 28, 2009
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Good line! Short but powerful off mostly good holds (minus the top mantle). Great climb if you're breaking into 12. Only my second 12a and it went down first go.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 26, 2009

    I have no idea why Mabe's guidebook gives this no stars. I've climbed plenty of zero star routes, and this is definitely not one of them. Other than the awkward mantle at the start, the moves are really fun and the rock is great. Well worth doing despite the short length.
    By half-pad-mini-jug
    From: crauschville
    Dec 16, 2009

    By Luke Childers
    Dec 18, 2009
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Looks like old Darth Jables didn't take his meds today!! We all know this line is more like a three bolt V1-a/b with a five foot long 5.8+c/d toss to gain the lip of what resembles a truck stop-sized, marble, table top. I give it stars!! Fun line.
    By Andrew Vojslavek
    Dec 31, 2009

    I could maybe see V3, I felt V4 was fair. Wish this could really be bouldered out... getting down would not be fun, though.
    By tcamillieri
    From: Denver
    Jan 9, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Pocket is not chipped.
    By Dave J
    Jul 9, 2011

    Felt V4 to me.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 8, 2012
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    If it weren't for the opening and closing ledges, this would be pretty epic: the movement through the middle is a blast (though short-lived).
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 18, 2012

    Short but great. Worth doing for sure even though the Clear Creek guidebook gives it no stars. The mantle alone deserves a star in itself and will make you smile....
    By Gneiss Yeti
    From: Denver, Colorado
    Jun 11, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    The moves on this route are super fun. Would be classic if it was a little longer. Amazing finger pocket up high that only nature could create. Do it!
    By DPug
    Sep 10, 2013
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    Didn't feel like a 12 to me. Fell on the mantle during my flash attempt, the mantle definitely felt like the crux to me, but then again I suck at mantling. A boulder grade of V3 seems more appropriate for this route.
    By drewhouser
    Aug 10, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    V4...mantle isn't bad, if you're into that sort of thing.
    By Aaron Furman
    May 14, 2017

    God, I want to put a perma-chain on that lip!
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    May 14, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Go for it, just be sure and put a steel carabiner at the bottom of the chain, no aluminum, please!

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