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City Slave 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Stroud, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Doulass 1989
Page Views: 1,578
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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City Slave


This climbs the juggy roof just right of Madison Avenue. They share anchors. A nice climb with a big pull at the beginning. Very enjoyable roof climb. The climbing eases up, later on. This is the reason that I only gave it 1 star. The roof begs 2 stars, just not a consistent enough climb. Do yourself a favor and do this climb.


4 draw for the route plus 2 for the chain anchors

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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The Ruckman guide rates the route as 5.10d, but their topo indicates that the crux is 5.11a. The roof sequence is not technically challenging, but requires just as much physical prowess (if not more) than Black Monday (5.11a) just around the corner. Just my thoughts...
By Shaun Greene
Feb 13, 2009

I would agree, this feels harder than black monday to me. Fun moves over a steep roof to a long reach to better holds...This one gets the adrenaline flowin...
By Erik R Johnson
From: Tacoma, WA
May 5, 2013

Clipping the first bolt is easier if you are taller. Otherwise it is sort of awkward/unnerving (at least using the sequence I did). You can always climb Madison Avenue and hang the first draw on the way down (they share the same anchors). Otherwise it was pretty fun.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 22, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

SO much easier than Times Square & Black Monday, at least for me (I'm around 6 ft tall). Bigger jugs!! Cool route!
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Just sent this route today and aside from the roof pull (aided by high feet) this route is very straight forward. I thought it was much easier than Madison Ave. I'd give it the grade suggested basing it off the power of the move to pull the roof, but it's over after that and I would really like to say it goes at 10c. I feel it is easier than Salem's Lot (10c) over at the Slips. And while the roof pull is enjoyable, it is not tough to figure out. Overall good route that should continue to see those who are breaking into harder tens push there limits on.
By dnaiscool
Apr 21, 2015

I popped a knee bar into that roof...took the gas right out of it...IMO, easier than Black Monday...not even as steep and the crux is shorter.

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