REI Community
Main Wall, left side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amandla S 
Batskins T,S 
Bwana Dik T,S 
City Park T 
City Park Bolt Ladder S 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 
Dwarf Tossing T 
Frog Pond T 
Frog Prince T,S 
Full Horse Power T 
Godzilla T 
Iron Horse T 
Iron Horse P2 T 
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 
Japanese Gardens T 
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love  T 
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 
Model Worker T 
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 
Numbah Ten S 
Numbah Ten P3 T 
Park Ranger T 
Princely Ambitions T 
Sagittarius T 
Slow Children T 
Stern Farmer T 
Sushi Farmer T 
Tadpole T 
Tantric Bazooka T 
Tommy's Sandbox T 
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 

City Park 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Roger Johnson, Richard Mathies, 1966 FFA: Todd Skinner, 1986
Page Views: 7,639
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Todd Skinner on City Park (5.13d), Index Town Wall...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


P1: (.13+ or C1) Next to Godzilla is this obvious pin-scarred splitter seam. This classic easy aid crack at one time had the distinction as the hardest crack in America when Todd Skinner freed it in '86. Another notable ascent was by Hugh Herr, a double amputee who used special bladed shoes to do a free ascent. Chris Schlotfeldt also completed a pinkpoint ascent (pre-placed gear) in the late 90's. Mike Schaeffer made what may be the first "true" redpoint ascent in '06, meaning he placed ALL his gear on lead from the ground. Start via a bolt ladder (.10b) that leads to the base of the crack. Continuously difficult and painful first digit jams (.13d) lead to easier (.11) climbing. The crux is probably the unrelenting nature of the moves.

P2: (.10b) The oft-climbed "approach pitch" to Slow Children can also be approached via Godzilla. Thin stemming leads to crack and ledgy face climbing above. Most parties end at the anchor below Sloe Children.

P3 and P4: Apparently, pitches 3 and 4 of City Park can be free climbed at moderate grades (.10, 5.9+). The belay for pitch 3 would be to the right of the belay for Slow Children, but I'm not sure. The pitch has reportedly been cleaned recently and is climbable.


Start on the bolt ladder left of Godzilla that leads into the obvious thin crack.


Lots of nuts for the pin scars, plus cams. Anchors on the first two pitches are fixed; the others are unknown but there is probably a bolted anchor at the top of P4.

Photos of City Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aiding lower pockety section of City Park
Aiding lower pockety section of City Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber aiding the first pitch of City Park.
Climber aiding the first pitch of City Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason leading pitch two of City Park.
BETA PHOTO: Jason leading pitch two of City Park.

Comments on City Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drewsky
Dec 29, 2008

I have not redpointed this route, but I did severely sprain my left index finger on the 5.11 section at the top. Having small fingers, steel fingertips, superglue and a certain degree of masochism is a good combination for success on this route.
By Ben Gilkison
Jun 11, 2011

Todd Skinner didn't have small fingers; but, he did have an exceptional work ethic.
By Brett Thompson
From: Washington State
Jun 15, 2011

Good observation Ben, Skinner was in it to win it.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 18, 2011

Did P2 while doing the Godzilla -> City Park -> Sloe Children linkup. Fun pitch. Thin and balancey off the belay to the mantel, and then into crusing hands. Make sure you bring some small nuts (big brass HB offsets or small BDs) for this pitch.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About