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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams and Dave Loeks, early 1970s
Page Views: 2,585
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007  with updates from Luc-514

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    In just two pitches of climbing, you will be treated to thoughtful face/groove climbing, and some of the most strenuous and technical corner/crack climbing at the grade on the cliff. The second pitch makes this route an instant Dacks classic.

    1st Pitch:
    Eyeball the bolt that sits about 20 feet up the wall below an incipient crack and groove. "Easy-does-it" climbing up to the bolt, then charge your way for the nice, flat belay ledge. (5.8, 75 feet)

    2nd Pitch:
    Move out to the right to gain the nice, big flake. Master the demanding flake by using what would seem to be an illogical method of upward progression, then belay off to the left on a nice belay ledge. (5.9+++, 75 feet)


    Right of the obvious Thunderhead roof in a black wall with a line of bolts up it (Menace To Sobriety, 10b). The original start to Cirrhosis begins just to the left at a lone bolt about 20 feet off the ground.


    A standard rack stressing the small to medium sizes. Nothing larger than a single #3 Camalot.

    Comments on Cirrhosis Add Comment
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    By Joe Mucci
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    May 27, 2009

    The second pitch is fantastic. Probably in my top five favorites at Poko. Best done by linking it up with Menace to Sobriety for a full pitch of stellar climbing.
    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Jul 18, 2011

    In the past I've done M2B to P2 of this climb. But this past weekend I did P1 for the first time. Not G by any measure. One #3 steel nut 5ft below the bolt still makes for an R start. The Move from P1 to P2 is quite hard (I lead it in one pitch so the anchor was merely a lone point of protection for me). You miss this mysterious crux if you do M2B first.

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