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Circus Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarian T,S 
Cloudwalker T 
Freak Show S 
Illegal Alien S 
Jimmy the Geek S 
Just Desserts T 
Pygmy Alien T,S 
Roar of the Greasepaint S 
Trapeze T 
Unknown 5.11 T,S 

Circus Wall Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 3, 2003
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TOP THIS WALL OUT. The view from teh top of Circui...


Circus Wall is part of the Island in the Sky formation. It faces west and receives afternoon sun, being the northmost aspect of this wall, it is also the first to receive Sun, with the left-most routes coming into the sun first, with the rest shortly following as the light progresses to the right (south). This 250 foot tall area contains some of the best climbing in the Snow Canyon State Park. Just to the Right lies the Aftershock Wall, which is on the same formation and of the same stone, and separated only by height and guidebook designation.

Circus Wall contains a few routes of both single and Multi-pitch lengths, and a 60M or two 60M ropes are suggested if you intend to rap from any of the routes. Some REQUIRE a 70M or two 60M. The grades vary from 5.6 to 5.10, all of which are at least partially 'bolted' (drilled angles). For those that are not 'bolted' they are by and large reasonably protected with a light rack of trad gear. A majority of the climbing is on good solid Patina edges and all but two of the routes get 2-3/3 stars from the local guidebook.

Roar Of The Greasepaint (***, 10a, 2-pitch, 150') and Pygmy Alien (***, 5.7, 2-pitch, 250') are noted as the best lines on this section of the Wall.

To descend, take a long rope or possibly 2 long ropes to rap the route you are on, or pick your way down the north end of the Island In The Sky rock for 400' passing some climbing and/or fixed raps. Allow 30-60 minutes for this "walk off" if you choose to do it. It is ambiguous and wandering, so I am choosing not to describe it particularly, other than to say it is not appropriate for novice climbers.

Getting There 

From the park entrance, drive down the main road passing the 'West Canyon day use area' on the right and going to the Pioneer Names trail on the right. This is well marked and has a pullout just there. The left-hand side of the large wall to the right is your destination. Spot a small cave and a very large arch on the wall. Take the trail to wall below the cave, where the late-1800's settling Pioneers painted in their names with greasepaint. Circus Wall includes all of the routes starting at the crack and arete near the left edge of the wall (The Barbarian) and continuing right to Trapese, at the right edge of the cave , and just left of what has been called the Aftershock Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Circus Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Circus Wall:
Pygmy Alien   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 230'   
Just Desserts   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Jimmy the Geek   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   
Freak Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Roar of the Greasepaint   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Cloudwalker   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Illegal Alien   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Circus Wall

Featured Route For Circus Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Ending pitch 1. Photo Keith Beisner

Roar of the Greasepaint 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Saint George : ... : Circus Wall
This route might be the best route on the "Circus Wall" section of the Island In the Sky, and at the very least makes a great warm-up for the longer routes on Aftershock Wall. The route is 2 pitches, but is easily lead as a single 50 M pitch. Approach Circus Wall via the Pioneer Names Trail and stop at the slab at the base of the names cave. P1: (30M, 5.10b) "Roar Of the Greasepaint" scrambles up into the Names cave and then moves out...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Circus Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Circus Wall Area, Snow Canyon State Park
BETA PHOTO: Circus Wall Area, Snow Canyon State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Circus Wall and Aftershock Wall from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Circus Wall and Aftershock Wall from the road.

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