Circus Trick Right
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SDS on the big edge at the bottom of the arete. Make thuggy moves up and right. Heel hooks may help the swing. As you establish underneath the lip, make a big move out right then move back left to the bigger lip. Press it out and mark 5 points. Absolutely classic.
On the Chaos Boulder, opposite side from "Chaos"
From: moab, utah
Jun 7, 2008
rating: V6 7A
The problem described is actually the right variation of Circus Trick, the "Super" version goes up to the big lip via a wild dyno from the good holds below the roof.