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Anteater - East
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Circus Roof 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1983
Page Views: 1,567
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: sweet jams under the roof


This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long. Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft. This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.

Make a some what scary rap from a small tree. Will it hold? It did for us...


This roof is located in an alcove on the east side of Anteater. The easiest approach is between Morning Glory and Anteater.


Gear to #2 camalot, doubles in the .5-1.5" range. Bolted anchor.

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By David D.
May 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can backup the tree with a #3 camalot while belaying the second up... but eventually, you gotta rap off that little dead tree... Way scary...
By steve lindsay
Jun 6, 2010

There are now bolts above the dead tree.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Sep 6, 2017

Short, but a ton of fun and well worth doing. I was able to keep it pretty G-rated with a standard rack with a bit of leapfrogging - used .75, 1, 2, my largest Nut, and a #3 after pulling the corner and making a couple of moves.

But if you have extra gear sitting around, it will be even easier and even more G-rated with something like a couple .75s, a #1, and three #2s.

2-Bolt anchor with chains as of September 2017.

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