REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of Brahm, The S 
Circus Midget S 
Flying Guillotine S 
Holy Crap T,S 
Original Route S 
Perro De La Guerra S 
Perro Del Amore S 
Pyramid, The S 
Turning Point S 

Circus Midget 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,693
Submitted By: Michael Bartosek on Mar 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Jeffrey Constine on Circus Midget - Tick Rock


go up the center face up to the thin crack under the roof and up.


To the right of Holy Crap


Bolts, Anchor Chains at top of route

Photos of Circus Midget Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paige 8 years old cracking some moves on Circus Mi...
Paige 8 years old cracking some moves on Circus Mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick leads Circus Midget
Nick leads Circus Midget

Comments on Circus Midget Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lance Ranzer
Jun 23, 2014

Great Climb - tough finish
BETA-- The roof: balance on a wide stance, small hand crack - static layback to set the 1st CRUX clip. Huge hold on top of the roof (thank god)
2nd CRUX is the extended route. I think it's a 10C/D -- Does anyone know the rating for this extension?
Finger jam the crack (very slippery- over chalked), just take the no hands rest after you pull the roof before heading up to this part!!
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just as Chad Parker posted, there is no anchor at the top of this climb! I learned this the hard way. You must continue up a slippery crack that requires either gear or some far-off bolts that you can protect with (although it's awkward). The required crack finish was unexpected and made the climb feel much harder, especially after pulling the roof and thinking that you're done.
Although I haven't seen a fall on it yet, the bolt before the CRUX bolt (i.e., the bolt before the one that protects the roof) is dangerously low and would have been better placed a foot higher. Blowing the clip could easily result in decking on the big ledge up there. Be careful and get some good finger locks in that slipper crack.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Aug 30, 2016

To Lance's comment it's a 5.10c/d above the roof to the anchors directly above Circus Midget. If you go to the anchor on the left (Flying Guillatine) 5.10b
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Feb 4, 2017

I've taken a fall on both those crux bolts on lead and both are a safe fall. The lower bolt looks too low but it's set away from the main wall on the corner so it makes for a safe fall if you miss the crux clip. This is the best route at Tick Rock in my opinion so don't miss this one.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About