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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Grey Giant Area
> Tombstone
Cinnamon Girl
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Tombstone
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Andre the Giant T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Beating Around the Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Heaven Can Wait T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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S Cracker, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tombstone, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | D. Michael, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 999 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This 2-pitch route on the north face begins about 50 m below and west of The Tombstone. Scrambling down the boulder-strewn gully is tedious but the climbing is worth the effort. The moderate first pitch ascends a finger / hand crack and ends on a ledge. The 2nd pitch requires technical face, finger / hand crack, and offwidth climbing skills. The offwidth flared crack section (crux) entails sustained movement over two bulges. The flared crack can be protected with #3 - #4.5 cams that aren't too difficult to place. This climb was originally rated in the "10d offwidth doesn't get enough repect" category.
Protection
Small to medium stoppers and an assortment of cams to 5" protect this crack climb. A tree at the top has an old sling around it. Long runners can be used to supplement the anchor. Rappel from the tree (2 ropes) to the ground or climb to the top of the Tombstone and use the rappel anchor for the S Cracker / Heaven Can Wait.
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