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(1) North Face
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Cindyrella T,S 
Dark Tower S 
Frodo's Journey S 
Gandalf's Grip T 
Gandalf’'s Peach T 
Peach Cling T 
Pipen's Direct T 
Risky Business T,S 
Skullduggery  T 
Traffic Court T 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Elder 7/24/93
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006

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Climb Gandalfs Grip crack straight up to the line of bolts up the overhung bulge. Jump from hold to hold to the crux of 2 finger crimps and throws. Prepare to project.


Gandalf's Grip.


Gear for gandalfs and 10 bolts, anchor.

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By mark d
Oct 31, 2006

this route was always missing a hanger when i still lived in pdx. is it still?
By peachy spohn
Aug 19, 2007

no, it is not missing a hanger any more.
By phillip Hranicka
Jul 8, 2008

Yes, it is still missing a hanger. I was just on this route the other day. The bolt protecting the crux is a rusted-out piece of junk and there is a stud sticking out of the wall about 2-3 feet above this. The hangerless bolt wouldn't be a big deal except that if the rusted bolt blows, the climber will fall back onto the slab of Gandalf's.
By peachy spohn
Jul 16, 2008

Yes, it would suck to fall onto the slab below and there is a missing hanger, but I never noticed the bolt as being in poor condition or so rusty. I think the climb is okay to do. If anyone gets on it just use your best judgement and climb within your own safety realm.
By another Chad
Oct 8, 2012

I think that the bare stud was left after some not-so-recent retrobolting. I remember thinking that it would be very hard to clip.

Does anyone want the stud to stay for possible future use? I'd be willing to remove it and putty the hole if the answer is no.

By another Chad
Apr 20, 2015

Two & a half years ago I posted the comment above. Crickets. Today I removed the bare stud between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. As I said before, it appears that this was the remnant of an older retrobolting.

Phillip is right, the bolt protecting the crux (2nd bolt) was a rusted out piece of junk. I replaced it today with beefy SS hardware.


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