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Cimmaron Lanes 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unpublished
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 20, 2001

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One of my personal favorites at The Gym, Cimmaron Lanes starts up just right of the block/dihedral that will greet you 50 ft right of the end of the trail. Run technical edges and pockets for 80 ft to reach a belay. Most parties bail out after finishing this crux pitch, however, the second pitch although modest is a real kick. Surmount the intimidating bulge above the belay on big pockets, bomber gear (a bit committing), and fun moves. The anchor is on the lip-like-ledge above.

Frankly, this line needs to be done in both pitches because the first pitch, alone, is not sufficiently distinguished from a slew of other 5.11 face climbs. This may give Cimmaron Lanes the amusing distinction of climbing a harder pitch just to get to the easy pitch.


Eight to ten draws and a rope. Double bolt belay anchors are present at the top of each pitch. One can descend from the top to the ground with double ropes.

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By Mark Eller
Nov 2, 2001

I thought the crux move (pitch 1) was horrendously reachy -- until my diminutive partner high stepped through it with ease. Solid for the grade; fun moves and excellent rock.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 2, 2001

I think, Mark, you are talking about dropping the right hand into the crux pocket (?). I have a positive 8 inch ape index, and was not overly stressed to reach it. Again, if I recollect correctly, this was not a problem of toes-to-tips reach. I do recall the high step gambit, but did not log the exact move in my notes. I think either will work - if you have the wing-span it is probably easier to make the stretch.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I'm sure I was doing the move wrong, but I thought the crux of this route was extremely hard, more on par with the other 12's at Shelf. Who knows, I was climbing it in direct sunlight. It is a very good route though.
By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I agree with Mike, the crux on this thing felt hard for the grade and would make for a proud on sight.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 12, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Excellent face climbing! I didn't notice anything reachy on this route. I'm just shy of 6', with a 3+ ape-index. It felt no harder than 11+ to me. I use routes like Gym Arete (Shelf), Fire & Ice (Eldo), Ricochet (Rifle), etc. as bench-marks for 12a, which all feel harder to me than Cimmaron Lanes.
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 18, 2014

Hardware upgrade 11/30/14 & Spring 2014.
Hardware supplied by Bruno Hache.
Upgrade Bruno Hache/Irina Overeem/Nate Liles/Kari Fagnan.
Great tag team team work.
Do this route! Classic at the grade, it keeps you on your toes the whole way up.
By Julia
May 18, 2015

This is a really great climb! The movement up the clean bottom section is tricky and fun. Highly suggest this climb!
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
May 18, 2015

I agree with you, Julia! I also didn't find it reachy, I am 5 ft. tall, so there must be intermediates or high feet, because I didn't notice working harder than my peers who varied in height.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2016

Fantastic rock climb.

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