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Cilley Old Man 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Sam Edson (?)
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: eddysamson on Apr 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Start on a sharp/jagged hold at about 6 feet. Get a right foot and then throw for a crimpy pocket above the starting hold. Get some feet and go for a sidepull left towards Cilley Flake. Drop knee your right leg to the left of the starting hold, grab a intermediate sidepull above the crimpy pocket and throw for a jug on the lip. Top out going right towards Cilley Groove with a heel.

I just cleaned the top out for this problem on 5/7/2014, it should be good to go!

I should add the route was named that because an old timer pointed the line out to me saying he wasn't sure if anyone had done it.

Location 

In between Cilley Flake and Cilley Groove on the corner of the boulder.

Protection 

pads


Photos of Cilley Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the big move to the crystally ball ...
Setting up for the big move to the crystally ball ...
Rock Climbing Photo: First move to a cool crimp with an interesting thu...
First move to a cool crimp with an interesting thu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start, I used a little different holds then sh...
The start, I used a little different holds then sh...
Rock Climbing Photo: First move off starting hold, in case it wasn't cl...
BETA PHOTO: First move off starting hold, in case it wasn't cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: starting hold, excuse the hands in the way its the...
BETA PHOTO: starting hold, excuse the hands in the way its the...

Comments on Cilley Old Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 19, 2015
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 15, 2014
rating: V5+ 6C+

This route is really cool, I do not think it is a V7 though. For me it is easier then Child Prodigy V6+ and Metallic V7 and in the same range as Spragausarus V5+. So I gave the grade V5+. It would be awesome for more people to climb it and get a better consensus grade. It is a very worthy route.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 15, 2014

What's with all the plusses Matt? Take a stand--bump them up a full number grade!
By eddysamson
May 20, 2014

I've had a hard time with coming up with the grade for this climb. I've had the beta locked for like 4 years, just had to get the top out, so its been hard to tell how hard it is when I've had the muscle memory down for so long. I agree though I am really psyched to get more people on this climb, its a great climb and I'd like to know the grade consensus as well!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 23, 2014
rating: V5+ 6C+

Where is the fun in that jay ;)

For me, the top out does not seem that difficult, someone has cleaned the top a bit and there are a couple good crimps up there that make the top seem fairly casual, with the meat of the climbing on the setup toss to the crystally ball at the lip. Hopefully more people climb it so we can get a good consensus!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 23, 2014

Is this an eliminate line or an everything goes?
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 23, 2014
rating: V5+ 6C+

When I climbed it I felt it was a pretty natural line, start on the starting holds for Cilley Groove and climb the face between that and Cilley Flakes. I used the ramp for Cilley Groove for feet when topping out because it felt natural that way, and there is no point where you would want to go any further left...
By eddysamson
May 27, 2014

The top out was significantly harder when it wasn't clean. We used to try to go left and top out on Cilley Flake because the way to the right was dirty and very sketchy. I didn't think to go right until after I got up there and started cleaning.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Jul 6, 2014

Surprisingly independent line, though a bit squeezed in, with good beta the dyno is avoidable. Holds are cool. Gradewise maybe 5 or easy 6? Definitely a step down from 3 speed on vinyl or pyramid power, a smaller step down from child prodigy I think. I agree with matthewWallace.

Good line though for sure, thought it'd be a lame variation but it's great.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: V5 6C

What's the difference between this climb and 'Cilley Groove'? Perhaps someone with more knowledge, like Mark, can shed some light, but I'm pretty sure that this problem, as described, IS 'Cilley Groove'.

This is the easiest and most obvious way to climb the dihedral/groove feature, which is what 'Cilley Groove' is supposed to do. If they're different, what's the beta for 'Cilley Groove' then?

Thoughts?
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 25, 2014
rating: V5+ 6C+

This is just speculation because I have never climbed 'Groove' but I always though you climbed the groove more directly for 'Groove". 'Old Man' doesn't seem to follow the groove for more than the first move.

MAYBE beta for 'Groove' is go up left hand to the crimp then knee bar and layback up the shallow corner? Not too sure though... Pure speculation.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 27, 2014
rating: V5 6C

Matt-

I tried 'Cilley Groove' a couple of different ways and every way was hard. Certainly nothing that felt like v4.

This line felt like the more logical and obvious way to do it.

Give it a go next time you're out there and see what you think. Maybe Eddy will tell us what the difference is supposed to be.
By eddysamson
Jul 29, 2014

I'm not entirely sure actually. I've never done Cilley Groove. I was always under the impression it was farther to the right and never understood where it started (used to think it was left train track way back). Never realized it climbs up right from where Cilley Old Man starts. This line was pointed out to me by some old guy on my first or second day ever climbing that boulder so I've only really been focused on this one anyways.
By eddysamson
Apr 19, 2015



Got some video of it today, first climb in the video

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