|Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit|
This broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushrooms of ice, but we were able to skirt around them. The last two or so pitches are cruiser snowy and rocky climbing. Top out to the infamous Knife Edge Ridge.
The route is the most obvious line up to the Knife's Edge, topping out to climber's left of Baxter Peak. Approach via the inlet creek to Chimney Pond. Descend via Cathedral trail if visibility is good. Otherwise, continue along the ridge and descend the Saddle Trail.
Bring and use a map and compass.
Standard ice rack.
By Artem Lebedev
From: Santa Monica, CA
May 19, 2008
rating: WI4- PG13
Small rock rack is very helpful, especially on the pitches above the crux. Used BD Cam # 1 and #2, set of nuts.
By Spencer Nowak
From: Dover, NH
Aug 11, 2012
According to Yankee Rock & Ice (p. 267), Henry Barber and Dave Cilley did the FA in 1973.