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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Leventhal and gang
Page Views: 1,519
Submitted By: Joseph01 on Jun 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Just after clipping the second bolt.


Start as for Luscious but go right at the top of the slab to clip the first bolt. A fun straight forward climb using pockets and the arete.


this route starts the same as luscious and goes up the arete.


5 bolts to 1 open shut and 1 chain.

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By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux move for me was 2nd to 3rd bolt and this seems to be height dependent.
By John Long
Aug 29, 2010

Joe Kristy drilled the bolts, I first led it, Bill, Matt and Joe followed. 5.11b/c depending on reach.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

John's smoking choss dust, this thing isn't over .11a even by soft Malibu standards.

Been thinking about doing this one for awhile, just to tick it off, but it looked so terrible. It actually has some pretty fun moves on it and decent-ish rock.
By Will Cornell
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this was pretty stiff for 11a. It is absolutely far more difficult than marauding monkeys. I'd give it 11b/c. The holds are good, but far apart. Each move is pretty committing, and clipping the third bolt is very tenuous.
By alex carey
Mar 14, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Reachy moves made this easier for me than my 5'2" partner. The real climbing doesnt start until after the first bolt and only last 30 feet, but they are a strenuous 30 feet, hardest parts were usually clipping. Thought the rock was pretty good quality.

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