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Cielo Crack Crag
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Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T 

Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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moving into OW territory


Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.


Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.


The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.

Photos of Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: crux is even higher yet
crux is even higher yet
Rock Climbing Photo: starting around the roof
starting around the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome.
Rock Climbing Photo: last crux.
last crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing my last piece. Fingers.
Placing my last piece. Fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Should have worn flannel...
Should have worn flannel...

Comments on Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") Add Comment
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By Ken Klis
Jul 19, 2008

SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo.
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Jul 21, 2008

I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work!
By Serial Crusher
From: A house
Jun 1, 2014

The roof, lip, and wide section climb great. The finger exit moves were pretty dirty. Definitely worth doing, especially with the sub-2 minute approach.

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