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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Bob Harrington, Alan Barteltt, June 1977
Page Views: 3,226
Submitted By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Di coming up the runout end of the first pitch.

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  • Description 

    Ciebola has two excellent, but very different pitches.

    Pitch 1 follows a thin crack past a pin and a bolt. Good thin cams/stoppers here. I think getting to the bolt is the crux of the pitch. Face traverse left around the roof 5.9+ and easy face leads past 2 bolts on a knobby face. Run it out on stimulating climbing 20 feet to the bolted belay, exciting 5.9+ here. 25 meters.

    Pitch 2 head out right and up a ways on easy climbing to the first bolt. Up and right a ways again on exciting 5.9+ climbing to the second bolt then the bolts seem to come much more often for well protected, sustained knob climbing. At the eighth bolt climb up then right to 3 more bolts and a long traverse to the bolted belay. This traverse can be hairy for the second. 30 meters.

    Rappel straight to the ground 60 meters or 30 meters (one rope) to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of Alien with a second 30 meter rappel to the ground.


    This route starts on the nice very thin seam right of Sweat Jesus on the northwest face of Medlicott Dome's far west side. Approach as for Bachar-Yerian then go west about 200 meters.


    Thin stoppers to 1", include thin cams but no micro-nuts. A sling tie-off for the pin on the first pitch is probably safer than clipping the pin eye. Second pitch has 11 bolts. Double ropes can help with rope drag and better protect your second on the second pitch traverse.

    All new big bolts thanks to the ASCA.

    Photos of Ciebola Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the route.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ciebola 2
    Ciebola 2
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ciebola 1
    Ciebola 1
    Rock Climbing Photo: Diana following the second pitch of Ciebola.
    Diana following the second pitch of Ciebola.

    Comments on Ciebola Add Comment
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    By Russ Walling
    Jul 26, 2009

    Is the first pitch really 100 meters, or is that feet?
    By Russ Walling
    Jul 31, 2009

    Funny that ropes are in meters but our minds are in feet...

    Always wanted to do that "Sweat Jesus" you mentioned too....

    Just funnin' with ya.... I'll pull these comments after the next typo fix.
    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 7, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Coming back years later I forgot the first pitch is no give away. The second pitch is simply stunning.
    By lucander
    From: Stone Ridge, NY
    Aug 24, 2014
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    One of the best routes I did in three weeks at Tuolumne. Two very different pitches, both with their own memorable challenges. Incredible.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Aug 18, 2015

    I believe the name for this route comes from the mythical "Seven Cities of Gold" in the Mexican desert also known as 'Cibola'.

    In that vein the route name should actually be 'Cibola.'

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