|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Season:||Spring through Fall|
|Submitted By:||Wesley Ashwood on Oct 26, 2009|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Cid's Embrace||Add Comment|
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By Mark P Thomas
Feb 6, 2012
I found the upper section to be harder and more interesting than the lower section. I don't see why people stop after the first 60 ft! I found Lancelot to be less burly than this route, so I recommend climbing Lancelot as a warmup.
The upper section doesn't really have a double crack system, but rather, more of a wide flake that divides the chimney into two wide, wavy slots. The flake seemed too rounded for liebacking, so I stemmed and climbed the right slot as an offwidth. Wear long sleeves or the gritty rock will give you bloody triceps as you chickenwing. Frankly this upper section felt more like a 5.9 offwidth to me, maybe about the same difficulty as P2 of Doggie Diversions (or maybe I was just climbing it wrong :-) ). The cracks are really wide and I was regretting leaving my #5 Camalot on the ground. Bring one #5 Camalot if you want decent pro on the upper crux.
Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings. It doesn't matter whether you stop short or go to the ground first. We got our rope stuck after climbing Lancelot, freed it after climbing Cid's, after which it got stuck again. Fortunately we could pull it enough to pop it out. The rope pulls clear enough from the ground as a single rappel if you pull from the side over by Henley Quits.
For those just doing the first 60', the anchor was pretty shady, so I added new slings and a rapp ring as of February 2012.