Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
BM Betta
Select Route:
Cicada Uprising T 

Cicada Uprising 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Sohan, Satish, Kowshik, Alok and Gokul (Apr 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Gokul on Sep 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Sohan, approaching the roof crack on the final pit...

Description 

Six pitches of mostly bolted climbing on easy slab gets you to a beautiful summit.

P1: 5.6, 180', 6 bolts. After the first bolt, the rock is mossy, but with good solid holds. Watch out on this section during the rainy season. Use a long sling on the third bolt.

P2: 5.4, 180', 3 bolts. Starts off on a gentle third class slab, and gradually gets steeper. The last 40' requires some easy technical climbing.

P3: 5.6+, 165', 6 bolts. Fairly sustained and steep slab for the grade, but with brilliant holds all the way.

P4: 5.6, 165', 4 bolts. Slightly run out, but the grade eases quickly.

P5: 5.4, 165', 1 bolt. Looking up from the anchor station, the single bolt is to the right of a cactus island, about 60' above the belay. From there, the route angles slightly left, roughly along a diagonal crack system, and the grade eases to low 5th.

P6: 5.4, 165'. Angle up and left to a big roof crack, plug a cam in the crack and traverse left. Continue traversing past the end of the crack, placing gear in the crack as needed. The roof crack will take cams of pretty much any size from fingers to fists. Staying close to the crack to protect, or protect often, raises the difficulty to 5.5 or 5.6. The climbing is a little easier a few feet below the crack. Resist the urge to head up after the end of the crack - stay low and continue traversing past a clump of grass. Top out near the boulders in front of the tall grass, and belay from there.

All belay stations except the top are bolted and all are equipped with a pair of rap rings.

Location 

From the temple parking area, follow the forest trail, past a pond (about 5-7 minutes in) and stay on the main trail as it descends along a dry stream bed. About 20 minutes of walking gets you close to the south face, where you exit the trail left, cross the gully, and angle up and left to the rock. See map and photos for more detail. This line stays left of High Lonesome (5.8 R)

Protection 

Eight slings (or 4 draws and 4 slings) and a couple finger to hand sized cams. The cams are optional if you are comfortable on 5.4 terrain without gear.


Photos of Cicada Uprising Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up on the FA, drill holes still fresh.  P...
BETA PHOTO: Starting up on the FA, drill holes still fresh. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit cactus
Summit cactus
Rock Climbing Photo: Route equippers. Clockwise from left: Sohan (helme...
Route equippers. Clockwise from left: Sohan (helme...
Rock Climbing Photo: FA party
FA party
Rock Climbing Photo: Satish approaching the end of the traverse on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Satish approaching the end of the traverse on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers at the top of pitches 3, 4 and 5.  Photo ...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of pitches 3, 4 and 5. Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach and descent beta. Stay straight on the tr...
BETA PHOTO: Approach and descent beta. Stay straight on the tr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo. The dotted line to the right is the la...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo. The dotted line to the right is the la...

Comments on Cicada Uprising Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -